![]() This is really common and always happens to the outside pins. With game vibration, the two outside pins had broken where they meet the glass. This was an older display, and used physical metal pins going from the glass to the circuit board. The trick to getting the display working is to look at the pins. Below is the DMD (dot matrix display) test *after* I fixed the display, showing all lines working. (It made viewing the display in diagnostic more difficult.) This had to be fixed. I was getting a little frustrated with the display, as it was missing two vertical and two horizontal lines. Speaking of which, it did pass the PoA diagnostic test, so I didn’t have to do any opto switch work to the PoA (which is pretty common on this game.) Some gentle bending of the switch legs fixes this problem, and it’s something any Indy Jones pinball owner will have to keep an eye on.īelow is a top side view of the PoA (path of adventure.) It’s a neat feature of the game, when it’s working. If this happens all the switch “down river” in that row or column will trigger together. It may be a little hard to see, but the switch solder points get jammed up and short to each other, effectively removing the diode from the switch. What happens is as the balls kick around (and they do kick around a lot on this game), they bounce and hit the switch leads underneath the mini-playfield (the “path of adventure”, as they call it.) You can see this in the picture below. Sometimes this is a problem on the CPU board, but after repairing a good number of Indy Jones pinballs, we had a hunch where the problem lived – under the mini playfield. (This is seen in the T.1 switch test by the way.) This is obviously not right and had to be fixed. If a switch like say the right outlane was closed, two other switches would also close. Next up was a somewhat bizarre problem in the switch matrix. (This is standard policy here at the pinball museum, all batteries need to be remotely mounted or converted to coin style batteries.) The original battery holder was of course corroded, so that was removed and a remote battery pack installed. Here’s a picture of the boardset in the backbox. ![]() Next was to get the game at least somewhat working. I went with the welding idea since I had an arc welder handy. There was a couple choices here – replace the leg plate, or weld a nut to the existing leg plate. ![]() Since these newer games are so heavy, there’s no getting around this, you need that bolt. One of the leg plates had a stripped bolt. Our job was to make it fresh again.įirst up was just assembling the game. In the case of this Indy Jones it was pretty hammered too, it looked like it had a lot of miles. Both these games were “re-imports”, meaning they were made in Chicago then exported to some foreign land, and then brought back here in a big container. It was the 1993 Williams Indiana Jones that was more of a challenge, hence this blog entry. ![]() Other than some nasty battery corrosion, it wasn’t too hard to get that game playing and looking good. The first game was a 1992 Williams Getaway (High Speed2), and that repair/restoration went pretty quickly. So we went on a small buying spree and got a couple 1990s Williams WPC style pinball games with that there fancy dot matrix thingy.
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